One night last spring, a pack of evil raving mad raccoons broke into our basement & ate our baby chickens.
I discovered the grisly murders at 1 AM. It was a scene straight out of CSI: Hobby Farm. Chicken leg stumps lying in pools of blood. Dripping red arcs spattered across the chest freezer. Feathers & raccoon paw tracks everywhere. I spent the next 4 hours cleaning like Winston Wolf in Pulp Fiction. It was bad.
Since then I’ve been on a personal vendetta to remove food sources, as the best way to discourage the cute little killers from living anywhere close by. I double-walled our compost bin with hardware cloth & ultra-secured the trash can. It wasn’t enough.
They started eating the sunflower seeds from our bird feeders. Well played, raccoons.
For awhile I took the bird feeders in at night, but then the early morning birds miss out, all because of the evil raccoons. Can’t have that. Enter the 20,000-volt bird feeder.
For an electrified bird feeder to work, there needs to be a “live” part that’s energized by the fence charger, & another part that’s the “ground”. The live section needs to be electrically insulated from the ground, so the electricity goes nowhere while there are no raccoons around.
When the animal touches the live & ground at the same time, they complete the circuit & feel shocked.
My bird feeder hanger is mounted with screws into our deck railing post. There are two ways to make this work:
- Ground the feeder hanger, & run an exposed live wire along the deck railing.
- Ground the deck railing, & make the whole feeder hanger “live”.
I went with method #2 because the deck railing wires go flat on the railing. The hard part is the feeder hanger needs to be insulated from the deck & can’t touch the screws. I widened the mounting holes to fit short pieces of rubber (beer) tubing inside, & put the screws back through the tubing. I used a rubber spacer & flat washer on the screw head end, & a plastic spacer of 1/2″ PEX water line (which fit nicely over the beer tubing) to hold the feeder hanger away from the deck. Then I drilled another hole in the hanger & used a small bolt to attach the live wire. I ran a loop of ground wire on top of the railing with fence staples.
In hindsight, method #1 is MUCH easier. The feeder hanger doesn’t have to be changed around since it’s part of the ground — attach the ground wire behind one of the existing mounting screws. Run a short length of exposed “live” wire along the deck railing with a few insulators to keep it from touching. Pretty simple & a lot less work.
Few things to keep in mind: the fence charger isn’t waterproof so either stick it indoors or build a small box outside. The grounding rod should be within 20′ of the charger. I set up my charger just inside the cellar bulkhead & then ran the wires outside. Don’t hit anything when you set the grounding rod: sewer pipes, water lines, power conduit, large rocks…
I used a low-power pulsed fence charger made by Zareba that’s specifically rated for small animals — squirrels, rabbits, raccoons, cats etc. It puts out 0.5 joules at a 1-second interval, with a 2-mile range. DO NOT use a charger with a stronger rating (i.e. for livestock), or continuous-output (not pulsed). Those can kill small animals.
Even low-power continuous-output chargers are dangerous. Because they shock constantly, sometimes animals can’t escape. It’s a never-ending taser — the continuous charge overpowers the animal’s muscles & eventually stops their breathing & heart. Pulsed-output chargers shock very briefly & animals have time to escape between pulses.
Some inexpensive continuous-output fence charger models to stay away from: SS-525CS, SS-725CS or EAC10A-FS, which are branded Havaheart, FI-Shock, or Zareba. Amazon has reviews for those like “Good job keeping dogs in, KILLS kittens though” … or another one, “Kills small animals”. Get a pulsed charger like the Zareba model listed below.
Here’s the equipment list:
- Zareba Red Snap’r EAC2M-RS fence charger ($24)
- 50′ of 14-gauge insulated fence wire ($19)
- 200′ of 14-gauge steel fence wire ($12)
- GE 15154 digital timer ($12)
- Insulators: porcelain ($1.30 each) or plastic ($19 for 50)
- 6′ grounding rod & clamp ($28)
- Romex wire staples, 50-pack ($2)
The total cost is about $100. And the result…